These hills have history
On a farm between Cappawhite and Doon, Tom Coffey discovered on eof the most sacred sites in Ireland. He tells Aine Fitzgerald what makes Carnahalla Heritage Centre so unique.
IN the late 1990's while driving stakes on land he inherited from his uncles, the Kilbrides, Tom Coffey heard a most uncommon resonating sound. It puzzled him. He investigated further.
Using history books and talking with archaeologists, he found that in all likelihood these unusual resonating sounds were from an old form of loud speaker built for the ceremonies and inaugurations. They were created by passageways underneath the earth.
Almost a decade later and Tom is pouring a cup of tea for a guest to Carnhalla Heritage Centre, a magical sanctuary located between Doon and Cappawhite, where visitors can discover Ireland's mythic past as they ramble through its two miles (spread over 70 acres) of scenic trails dotted with over twenty sites of archaeological note. The centre was officially opened by Minister of State for Public Works, Martin Mansergh, TD, on June 21 - the longest day of the year.
"I grew up two miles away on the hill of the eyelid," explains Tom, throwing a glance out over the East Limerick countryside from inside a window of the centre.
" It was always a kind of a shadowy site. I used to walk up and down to visit my uncles. They left me the farm."
The quiet, almost haunting archaeological landscape exhibits evidence of settlement stretching back possibly from 6000 years to more modern history.
"First of all," Tom explains, "if you walk through the site, the entire landscape is alive – the hill twists right around, there are scared groves or shrines. In early times the land was usually represented by a Goddess - in this case Tea whose shape was clear to see in the rise of the hills - you have that all here- the central hill is Sheela na Gig shaped".
The main cultural significance of Carnahalla, according to Tom, is the presence of Tea's well and the topography of Tea's tomb and surrounds, as described in the tenth century annals. Tea (or Teamhair) was a princess from Egypt who was revered as a Goddess of fertility and life.
Other indicators of the site's importance in ancient time include a platform fort, a bronze age cooking site, a holy well and earthworks described in the annals as that of Tea's tumulus.
"I was reading a book on Professor Michael Ryan and he said that there must be some huge tumulus that was never discovered around Cashel and he sent down a few people from the National Museum to investigate," says Tom who did a diploma himself in Archaeology in 2005 at UCC.
Further exploring led to evidence of international trade in the form of ancient artefacts not commonly found in Ireland. " There is the presence of jasper not found in Ireland and copper cakes indicate early bronze age smelting which was very significant for a royal site," continues Tom.
In ancient times man chose his sacred and ceremonial site by observing the surrounding landscape including the hills and mountains, and the solar alignments that go through them. To be able to boast a true royal sanctuary a number of key elements are essential, according to Tom.
"You have to have a big assembly area on a ceremonial site and a big platform fort. The higher your platform fort –the more genealogy the people had, that were on it. It was a symbol of aristocracy. I have a platform fort on top of Tea's Tumulus."
For Ireland's ancient ancestors their ceremonial ritual incorporated much of the countryside including the lakes, bogs, woodland and wells, hence the importance of huge biodiversity when identifying a sacred site. The largest hazel, crab and ivy trees in Ireland measured by the Tree Council of Ireland are on the site in Gabba's wood which contains 20 different species of trees with all their own ancient uses. For example the hazel rods were used for wicker work to fence in livestock.
The Butler's of Ormond planted these trees in keeping with Celtic mythology.
Locations on the four compass points also lend themselves to interesting alignments. To the south - music. "The ancient name for the Galtees was Crotta Cliach which means the harps of Cliach," Tom explains.
To the west - knowledge. "There is a huge bevy of Goddesses over there - Knock Aine - the chief one. To the north then was protection which relates to kings. To the east then was the rising sun for richness. They had to pick out certain key locations. That's why they picked out this location. You have to have solar alignment, so for Aine's feast day - January 17 the sun sinks in a line."
Further investigation of the site indicates links with both Brian Boru and Patrick Sarsfield.
In later history Brian Boru fought the Limerick Danes about four miles away from Carnahalla and Sarsfield is reputed to have stayed there before he blew up the Williamite Siege train.
With all this incredible history to boast one has to question why the site not more famous?
"The site was obviously protected by the elite including the Butlers of Ormond and the best way to protect a site is to decoy it which explains why the topography, as described in the annals, is found on this site and not on others such as Tara," Tom answers.
While for many, the details of the historic information may be heard to digest in one go, the newly built heritage centre has been designed to compliment the ancient site and Tom is always on hand, he says, to provide interpretation of the site.
The centre itself is circular in shape, and with its dry stone clad, blends in perfectly to the old structures that surround it.
Once inside, guests of up to sixty, can enjoy refreshments in the cosy cafe/restaurant, the plush interior of which was designed by Tom's wife Johann, and boasts warm burnt orange curtains, chocolate brown and cool cream leather seating - all set off by a traditional cooking stove in the centre.
The circular nature of the building meanwhile, allows for a breathtaking view of the countryside out of every window. Situated outside the rear window lies the seat of a goddess - not many pals of Tom's two's daughters, Laura 14 and Karen 7, can boast that in their back yard!
But despite all the mystique and history surrounding the site and no matter how many times Tom walks it himself, during a quiet moment he confesses he wouldn't venture down there alone at night.
"There is this eerie feeling you get when you are walking around the site. I wouldn't go down there in the night time. You'd get little shivers."
Log onto www.carnahalla.com for details on opening hours.
Email to a friend
Print this page
Looking for...
Featured advertisers
Jobs
Search for a job
Weather for Limerick
Monday 21 May 2012
Today
Cloudy
Temperature: 12 C to 18 C
Wind Speed: 17 mph
Wind direction: South
Tomorrow
Cloudy
Temperature: 13 C to 18 C
Wind Speed: 18 mph
Wind direction: South
